“In a Year, I Changed 7 Countries and 35 Apartments.” How I Received a Spanish Digital Nomad Visa and Settled Into This Country

The whole world, one might say, is now open to remote workers — this is greatly facilitated by digital nomad visas. At the moment, they are issued by a huge number of countries on all continents. And Spain is no exception.

Vera Zhukova has been living in Valencia on a digital nomad visa for over a year now. During this time, she received a visa, found housing, sorted out taxes, and experienced all the joys and difficulties of Spanish life.

In this interview, Vera shares practical tips and observations that will be useful to anyone who is thinking about moving to Spain as a nomad or is simply interested in the life of digital nomads.

I dreamed of traveling not only during vacation.

Why I Decided to Become a Nomad

— Tell us a little about yourself: how old are you, and what do you do?

— My name is Vera. In Russia, I lived in St. Petersburg and was engaged in the coffee business. I’ve been a digital nomad for more than two years now, working as a marketing director for a small European IT company.

I like to travel not like an ordinary tourist, but to immerse myself in local life and explore the surrounding nature. Whether it’s walking through the mountains of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego or climbing Elbrus and Olympus, all this gives me genuine delight. My dream was not to limit such adventures to just vacations, but to be able to work from anywhere in the world. I'm glad I succeeded.

— How did your journey as a nomad begin? What are the pros and cons of this lifestyle?

— At the beginning of March 2022, I left my beloved St. Petersburg. I had a Finnish Schengen visa, and from that moment on, my nomadic life began. But so that it would not end quickly, I found a job that would give me the opportunity not to be tied to a place and would generate income sufficient for my lifestyle. This is a key condition, unless, of course, you are the lucky owner of an inheritance.

In a year, I changed 7 countries and 35 apartments: I lived for six months in Belgrade, Serbia, and have been living in Spain for more than a year.

About the Digital Nomad Visa Process

— Tell us your story about getting a digital nomad visa in Spain.

— To obtain a digital nomad visa in Spain, you need to collect a package of documents, some of which require translation by a sworn translator and apostille.

At the time of my application, the following documents were required:

• The employment contract is not with a Spanish company that has been in existence for more than a year. There were also requirements regarding the duration of work at this company. If the employment contract is concluded for more than a year, then a visa will be given for a longer period. I received a visa for 3 years — this is the maximum period.
• The salary must be at least 2646 euros per month. If you are moving together, then the applicant’s salary should be from 3,639 euros, and if there are children, even more.
• Apostilled diploma if you work in your specialty. If not, a previous work contract with a similar position for a period of 3 years.
• Bank statement about the account balance.
• Signed “Declaracion responsable de compromiso de alta en la Seguridad Social," which states that I myself will register and pay taxes.
• CV.
• Recommendation from an employer.
• Apostilled criminal record certificate from the places where you have lived for the last 2 years.
• Medical insurance for a year. I paid 775 euros for it.
• State duty (75 euros).
• Completed application form (there is a special form).

I prepared all these documents with the help of a lawyer. 21 days after filing, they also asked me for a bank statement only with salary receipts, and certificates of work completed for my employer.

A few days later, my visa was approved. My husband applied after me — everything was easier for him, since he joined my visa.

At the time of filing, I had a Schengen visa, and I submitted documents from Spain. This, as far as I know, speeds up the process compared to applying through the consulates.

It took me 3 months to collect all the documents. I was one of the first to receive a visa in April 2023.

A Nomad Visa is a type of residence permit. After its expiration, I will need to apply for an extension, providing grounds for this (namely, proof that I still have a contract and income). After 5 years of living in the country, I have the right to apply for permanent residence, and after 10 years, for a passport.

Serbia, 2022-2023

In Spain, the minuses are the other side of the pluses.

About Life and Adaptation in Spain

— What is it like for you to be a nomad in Spain? Share your impressions.

— I feel very comfortable in Spain. I think it depends a lot on the mood. I try to approach life here with curiosity and understanding, realizing that there is no ideal place: there is no country with a climate like Greece, salaries like Norway, taxes like the Emirates, food prices like Thailand, fun like Spain, but at the same time calm as in Switzerland. After all, we choose not only the pros, but also the cons of the country.

In Spain, the minuses are the other side of the pluses. People here are not obsessed with work; they maintain a healthy balance between work and personal life, they have time for family, friends, hobbies, and countless holidays. But the flip side of this is unpredictability. For example, in the opening hours of establishments.

Spaniards are very sociable, which is great but can sometimes be tiring. For example, you can stand in line at the checkout, shifting from foot to foot, and the person who has already paid will continue to discuss something with the cashier for a few minutes.

There's no rush here. Time is a rather arbitrary concept — “tomorrow” does not literally mean tomorrow, but rather “someday later, maybe never, but definitely not today.”

There is no everyday rudeness here; there is a very low level of aggression. Perhaps this energy comes out during the endlessly noisy holidays. It's fun when you're on vacation, but when you live here full-time, sometimes you have to be patient or get away for the holiday. For example, Fallas in Valencia, which is celebrated for almost a month, is accompanied by processions, firecrackers, and blocked streets.

Spain, 2023-2024

— Spain is not the most digital country. Spanish bureaucracy is very annoying at first, for example, when opening a bank account (it took me a month) or filling out paperwork.

Probably the most surprising thing was the banks, which are not at all happy about me and my money. There are only a few hours a week when you can come and open an account, and to do this, you need to show a stack of documents, including those that prove the origin of the funds. All this must be translated into Spanish.

There is such a feature: in the same bank, but in different branches, different employees may require different documents. To open an account at BBVA bank, I had to go to 6 branches: somewhere they demanded that my employment contract be in Spanish and not in English, somewhere the contract was in order, but they asked me to translate the invoices by a sworn translator, etc. Not all transactions can be carried out through a cash register, and the ATM may not have an English interface.

But once this quest is completed, it becomes easier.

Spain, 2023-2024

— It was difficult to get used to the fact that most shops, including supermarkets and markets, are not open on Sundays. In August, almost everything outside the tourist area closes for a month as people go on vacation. Yes, the entire staff of some copy center is going on vacation — come back in September. Services stop, it is difficult to rent accommodation (this does not apply to tourists), etc.

The heat and the half-dead city with the shops shuttered are probably my hardest months here. But on the other hand, I’m glad that employees can spend time with their families, relax, and there are no disputes in the team about who goes on vacation when.

It took me a long time to get used to having a siesta in my already unpredictable schedule. I’m still not used to late dinners. In Spain, it is difficult to eat at 18:00; most establishments are open for lunch from 12 to 15, then break until 20:30. This disciplines us and saves our budget — we have dinner at home, as we are used to.

Here is an “interesting” delivery: the courier has never called in advance, only when he was directly at the door. Sometimes you can select a delivery time in the app, but this doesn’t mean anything — the courier can come a day before the selected time, call from the door, and ask where I am. In Spanish, of course.

Of course, what seems like disadvantages to me is not such for the locals. For them, this is a familiar way of life. And it’s easier to live by accepting it rather than criticizing it.

I once met an American woman who met her future Spanish husband in Samara.

— How was your adaptation in the country?

— Much easier than I expected. I, like many, read about the stages of adaptation and was afraid that it would take years.

The first task was to resolve everyday issues: searching for an apartment, registration, obtaining an ID, opening a bank account, opening an autonomo (analogous to an individual entrepreneur) and an account for it, searching for an accountant to register a company, and navigating tax payment issues.

The first accountant I found through recommendations from chats made a mistake that could have cost me 3,000 euros, so I had to look for another specialist. This is one example of unforeseen expenses and stressful situations that can overtake any nomad.

At the same time, I worked, and in my free time, I studied the city and culture, restored my knowledge of Spanish, studied English, and prepared for the marathon.

Now I understand that I set myself too many tasks at the same time. I should have given myself more time and prioritized better. I paused my Spanish classes in December because it was proving difficult to juggle learning two languages, ​​and I was unhappy with my progress in both. Spanish remained at level A2. I focused on improving the English I needed for my job.

In September, we went on vacation for 2 weeks to Finland and the Netherlands, and when I returned, I felt at home — here are my palm trees, my sea, and coffee on the balcony in the morning. I gained the strength to meet new people.

I probably finally began to consider this city my own when I ran a marathon through its streets.

— There is a large Russian-speaking community in Spain. You can live in this “bubble” with minimal contact with the local culture. There are even stores with familiar products: buckwheat, “Baltic Nine,” and cottage cheese. Many people do just that: they turn to Russian-speaking realtors, rent housing from compatriots, and visit Russian-speaking specialists (manicurists, barbers, and cosmetologists).

Russian-language entertainment is organized here: stand-up comedy, concerts, quizzes, events for children, and interest clubs for adults. Many cafés and bars are open with our usual service, where they serve cheesecakes and Napoleon.

For many, this is important support during the adaptation period and a way to cope with homesickness. It's wonderful that such an opportunity exists.

I sometimes buy buckwheat and attend several Russian-language events; I even organized my own. However, 80% of my communication takes place in English. There is a huge English-speaking community of people from all over the world. For me, this is an opportunity to get acquainted with other cultures, meet people with a completely different background, and broaden my view of the world.

For example, I attended HIIT training in the park, after which we went to drink coffee together, and it was always a very international get-together: a coach from England, several girls from Australia, Venezuela, the USA, a Spaniard, a Dutchman. I once met an American woman who said that she met her Spanish husband in Samara.

In addition, I go to English-language digital nomad meetings, excursions, and stand-up performances, where the performers are not professional comedians but the nomads themselves. It’s very interesting to listen to what people from Pakistan, India, Germany, Israel, the USA, and Estonia joke about.

Valencia is a multicultural, friendly, and open city. I love being part of this community. I did not encounter discrimination or stereotypes. Having learned that I am from Russia, locals usually talk about their Russian acquaintances or note that Russians speak English well and generally learn languages ​​quickly (which is surprising for us, who are always embarrassed by our accent and mistakes).

— Is English enough for life?

— Probably not. There are countries like the Netherlands, Denmark, Norway, and Sweden where you can live for years with only English. Spain is definitely not such a comfortable country in this regard.

At first, you can do without Spanish, but you will often have to use the services of a translator (in banks, government agencies, when renting housing, and when issuing SIM cards).

However, not knowing Spanish is not a barrier to moving if you are willing to pay for additional services and endure temporary difficulties.

In the long term, you will still have to learn Spanish. If you move with children to bilingual regions (for example, Catalonia), be prepared for additional difficulties at school.

I really like that the Spanish support all attempts to speak their language. They will definitely praise you: “You are so great! Your Spanish is good.” “You have become better at speaking.” This is very inspiring.

Those who say that Spain is a cheap country probably come from Norway.

About Finding Housing in Spain

— Where do you live in Spain? How does the rental market work there in general, and what are the prices?

— I live in Valencia on the Mediterranean coast; it is the third-largest city in Spain after Madrid and Barcelona. If we consider long-term rentals, then basically, options are available from a year (but you can also find them for 6 months).

With an annual lease, you can get a residence permit, and this does not depend on the owner’s wishes: just come to the municipality with an agreement and documents confirming the landlord’s ownership of the housing. Based on this, you are issued an official certificate of registration at your place of residence.

Realtors here are busy people and are in no hurry to offer you something, or offer something that only they have in their agency. Therefore, it is more effective to choose what suits your condition and budget yourself, and then give it to a realtor so that he can handle all subsequent communication.

Spain has a squatter problem (housing occupation), and, unfortunately, this affects the search for an apartment. Spaniards are afraid to rent to foreigners, especially if they work for a non-Spanish company. Despite the fact that my salary is much higher than the Spanish average, some owners refused to show us housing. Landlords are afraid that at some point we will stop paying and it will be difficult for them to evict us (this is done through the court, and the courts here are slow). All foreigners have such difficulties; there is no prejudice to this because of nationality.

On the advice of friends, I made a presentation about what a wonderful, successful, and athletic family we have — we don’t smoke, we don’t have parties. Apartment owners look not only at this but also at the employment contract and account statement.

The owners of three apartments we liked refused. In another, I saw a cockroach and changed my mind about filming. In another, I was confused by the actions of the realtor on the part of the owner when they began to put a lot of pressure on me, “Come with cash; we’ll sort everything out on the spot and sign because there’s another couple vying for this apartment, ready to pay money today.” I don't like making expensive decisions in a hurry under pressure, so I refused.

— As a result, we rented a small, newly renovated one-bedroom apartment in the very center of the city, in a building after a major restoration. We negotiated for a long time regarding several points in the contract — the owners wanted us to commit to living for 3 years, but we were not ready for such conditions. 

Our rental cost is 1200 euros per month. To this are also added payments for utilities and internet within 200 euros. We also paid the owner's realtor, plus a deposit (3 months' rent) and one month's rent in advance. As far as I know, in the summer they limited the amount of the deposit in Spain, and now you don’t have to pay so much.

It took us 3 weeks to find an apartment. There is an option to rent housing through Russian-language telegram channels, but according to my observations, the supply there is very limited and the prices are higher.

What to pay attention to when renting an apartment in Spain:

• Availability of bars and restaurants. I checked the opening hours of the establishments on Google Maps. Ideally, come on a Friday evening and explore the situation. Spaniards and tourists can be very noisy, and if you don’t like something, you won’t be able to move out.
• Air conditioning and heating. Only 35% of housing in Valencia is heated. Locals are used to living in such apartments in winter in the format of “dress warmly, buy slippers with thick soles.” But if you sit and work from home, it will be cold, and people from Eastern Europe, accustomed to the same temperature in the apartment in winter and summer, find it very uncomfortable in such rooms. In July-August, it is difficult to survive without air conditioning, let alone work efficiently.
• Boiler size. It is advisable to have more since there is usually no centralized hot water.
• Double-glazed windows. Good double-glazed windows will protect you from noise from the street, neighbors, and heat loss in winter.
• Proximity of garbage containers. They are often taken at night, and it is very noisy, especially the green containers with glass.
• Quality of houses. Due to the warm climate, inexpensive housing here is built with very thin walls. I once rented something like this on Airbnb; it felt like my neighbor was washing himself in my closet.
• Layouts. We need to be prepared for layouts that are unusual for us.
• Infrastructure. It is best to see the desired area in person. In telegram chats, they write “My favorite area” and “I don’t recommend it to anyone” about the same areas. Everyone's needs are different, and the idea of ​​a good neighborhood is very different between a family with two small children and my husband and me. We are not interested in playgrounds, schools, clinics, or closed courtyards. But you need a place for jogging and an active city life.

Netherlands, 2023-2024.

About the Cost of Living in Spain

— What are the prices in Spain?

— Those who say that Spain is a cheap country may have come from Norway. Yes, you can find wine for 1.5 euros, but you are unlikely to want to drink it.

Food costs vary: some goods (such as shrimp) are cheaper than in Russia, while beef is significantly more expensive. Overall, our food expenses have doubled compared to St. Petersburg.

The cost of gasoline is about 1.7 euros per liter. Public transport in Spain is quite affordable: the cost of one trip is less than a euro. Domestic air travel can be very profitable, especially if you book early and travel without luggage. For example, we were able to fly from Valencia to Bilbao for only 15 euros.

However, since the COVID-19 pandemic, with the growing popularity of remote work, prices for short-term rental housing have increased significantly. In the center of Madrid, a modest double room costs from 150 euros, and a room in an apartment starts from 80 euros. Barcelona and resort areas are even more expensive during the season.

Dinner in a restaurant for two without alcohol will cost at least 40 euros.

For mobile communications (20 GB of internet, unlimited calls, no EU roaming) I pay 23 euros per month on an annual contract. These rates are available with a resident card. For non-residents, prepaid SIM cards are offered, which not all operators have (for example, Lebara), and are sold in specialized Locutorio stores. Home Internet costs us 30 euros per month.

— How much money do you need to live in Spain, based on your experience? 

— It seems to me that the limits that have been introduced for obtaining a nomad visa are quite adequate (2,646 euros for one and 3,600 for two). It won't be a luxurious life, but it will be quite comfortable. You can live on smaller amounts, but by saving quite seriously — for example, by renting a room rather than an apartment.

As for taxes, Spain has a progressive taxation scale: in addition to income tax, you also have to pay a social contribution. Payment amounts vary slightly depending on the region. Last year, I paid about 6,000 euros in taxes. There will be more this year.

Italy, 2022

About Traveling Around the Country and Leisure

— How do you spend your leisure time in Spain and beyond?

— I love running, swimming, and traveling. I walked 320 km. along the Camino de Santiago mountain route. I dream of returning and walking this path again. I love little weekend trips: go to some nice city nearby, go on a trek. I also love snowboarding: so far, I’ve only skied in the Alps, but I plan to master the Spanish slopes.

Valencia, where I live, is a very sporty city. It actively promotes itself as the “Ciudad del Running” (City of Running). In addition to the large-scale races such as the Valencian Half Marathon and the Marathon, various races are organized every week in the city and its surroundings.

It is especially moving to observe the events in the small neighboring towns (pueblos). There, local residents come out to support the runners, and older people bring chairs to the street in front of their houses so as not to miss such an important event in the life of their usually quiet town.

In Valencia, there is a 9-kilometer-long park located in a former river bed. It is fully equipped with sports fields, jogging, and cycling paths. For me, as a marathon runner, this is a gift. If you are not in the mood for an active holiday, you can have a picnic in the shade of the trees or visit the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (City of Arts and Sciences), an architectural complex reminiscent of a city of the future. There are also open-air discos held there.

Madrid and its luxurious Retiro Park have a special place in my heart. I love visiting my favorite coffee shops and just walking along the streets, where it’s so nice to get lost. I approach museum visits selectively: I can come to Madrid specifically for a few hours to visit the Prado or go to Bilbao for the Guggenheim Museum. I was also impressed by Asturias and the ocean coast of Spain.

In general, I am fascinated by the diversity of the regions of Spain. These differences are manifested in everything — in culture, architecture, nature, and even languages. This is why I love traveling around this country so much.

The Pros and Cons of Being a Digital Nomad

Among the advantages for myself, I note the opportunity to combine life and travel: you live in beautiful places, get to know the local culture, enjoy the flavor, and meet people with a background very different from yours. This is fascinating!

And at the same time, you are free to move on. You get rid of unnecessary things, become freer from the culture of endless consumption — you profess minimalism.

Disadvantages:

• My cat doesn't like being a nomad. Traveling with animals means certificates and all sorts of requirements in different countries, as well as special plane tickets that need to be purchased well in advance.
• Temporary housing is always an order of magnitude more expensive than long-term options.
• It is more difficult to maintain friendships and find new friends when frequently changing locations.
• Adapting to a new place is always stressful and requires financial and time expenses: while you figure out what products are tasty in the supermarket, where to find the necessary services, and where delicious coffee is made.
• Booking tickets and finding accommodation also take a lot of time. You might be wrong about the location and accidentally end up living in a ghetto, realizing after the fact that those photos on Airbnb were heavily photoshopped. Or, for example, the Internet speed turns out to be unsuitable for remote work.

Therefore, the life of nomads, although it looks like an endless vacation, is not one. This lifestyle comes with its own amount of stress and is certainly not for everyone.

Workation with the team in Turkey

Advice for Future Digital Nomads

— What advice can you give to those who are just planning to become digital nomads?

— Be open to new things. It's impossible not to compare, but try not to put labels on previous experiences. Be curious and respectful of the country's characteristics. 

There is a cool book called “The Culture Map,” which helps to get rid of stereotypes (for example, that some nations are lazy, insincere, etc.) and build relationships with people from different cultures, understanding differences and their reasons.

Take care of yourself; don’t try to combine crazy travel and adventure with intense remote work. Give yourself time to adapt.

Be prepared that this lifestyle costs more, and be more comfortable with the loss of money that accompanies a new experience.

Translate and apostille all diplomas and marriage certificates in advance. Write a large power of attorney to a loved one who can represent your interests in government agencies and receive certificates in Russia.

Get yourself a second passport. Very handy in case one gets lost.

And if you really want it, try it! This is not a one-way ticket; you can try this lifestyle on yourself, understand whether it suits you personally or not, and return if you want.

Greece, 2022

Turkey, 2022.